More Great Burgundy
It’s easier to find hens teeth than deals on fine Burgundy. I met Veronique Drouhin in the early 1990’s when the new project , Domaine Drouhin in Oregon, was beginning. She is an impressive person. (Read the Producer Note below much of it in Veronique’s own words.)And now she is back in Burgundy working at the family business. I recently tasted the below two Village wines from the 2013 Vintage and was quite impressed.
These are Premier Cru caliber wines for way less. Burg Hound gave both wines an “Outstanding” and he is not easily excited. And we have the lowest pricing online by a long way. Grab a mixed case and get the same solid case discount.
Véronique Drouhin noted that 2013 was “one of the most difficult growing seasons that we’ve seen as it was even tougher than 2012, which was already quite punishing. We, yet again, had another bout of severe hail on the 23rd of July in the northern part of the Côte de Beaune that extended from Pernand-Vergelesses to the northern part of Meursault. It covered from 1,400 ha and in the afflicted areas did an enormous amount of damage. Our parcels were affected by losses of between 20 and 90% and yet again the Clos des Mouches was particularly badly hit. We inadvertently did an especially long cool maceration. I say inadvertently simply because the fruit was quite cold when it was picked and thus it took a long time to arrive at a sufficiently warm temperature to allow the yeast to do their work. By contrast we used notably less whole clusters than usual and no more than 10 to 15% in most cases. The total cuvaisons varied between 19 and 26 days and then we did some post-fermentation work to help polish the tannins. It’s interesting because sometimes the élevage doesn’t make that much difference in the wines and sometimes it makes an enormous difference and 2013 is one of those vintages where the wines are almost not recognizable between the beginning and end of this process. As such it was a very happy surprise because early on we honestly didn’t know how the reds were going to turn out. By contrast, while the whites certainly changed as well, it seemed relatively clear that they were going to be at least very good. In terms of the reds they are classic burgundies with good acid level, plenty of energy and what I like best about them is their wonderful transparency. You just can’t mistake one wine for another as the terroir is beautifully delineated.”
*2013 Meursault A.C. Joseph Drouhin
$48.75/$526.50 per case
(Burg Hound )”OUTSTANDING”
There is a hint of matchstick character to the acacia blossom, roasted almond, pear and apple scents. This too exhibits a succulent and lush mouth feel on the softly mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that possess good finishing energy on the cool and dry but not austere finale. This is very Meursault and should drink well young as well as reward mid-term cellaring – worth a look.
*2013 Gevrey Chambertin A.C. Joseph Drouhin
$54.25btl/$585.90 per case
(Burg Hound ) “OUTSTANDING”
This is the first wine to display any appreciable amount of wood influence with its toast and menthol attributes that aren’t enough to fight with the earth and humus-suffused red and dark pinot fruit scents. The cool, sleek and intense middle weight plus flavors display ample volume and plenty of minerality on the firm and ever-so-slightly rustic finish that delivers outstanding length for a villages level wine. This is impressive and well worth your attention.